THE WINE CONNOISSEUR - GREEN EGGS AND WINE

These days it's fashionable to be "green"; and let's face it, it's the right thing to do. From green farming to organic clothing, kitchens, cars and countless other products, the recycling of just about anything, maybe going "green" is no longer just a fashion statement or marketing plan, but with hope, the way of the future for all.

"Green" wines have come a long way in a short time as well. While there is still no clear worldwide standard to follow, many organizations have given us at least a good starting point to venture forth with.

It wasn't long ago, that the organic vegetable section in many grocery stores consisted of some pretty paltry looking produce. In sections that might be more aptly named Gang-Green than Organic, it was common to witness spinach so wilted you wouldn't have to saute it in order to soften it up, rubbery, grayish-orange carrots limp enough to tie in knots and potatoes with more eyes than the waiting room of an ophthalmologist. Likewise, if you were searching for organic wine in shops across the country, they would likely be found on the bottom shelf of the miscellaneous section in the dimly-lit outer reaches of the store; sandwiched between the Japanese plum wine and the sangria.

In fact, still today, many wine producers are hesitate to advertise the fact that they farm either by organic, sustainable or biodynamic methods because of their reluctance to have their prodcuts placed in undesirable locations within a store. This is changing though, with many of the world's most famous (and expensive) wines being made from some sort of green farming. Domaine Romanee-Conti (DRC) is a prime example of wines which are produced with a large nod to biodynamic principles and are arguably the most expensive and sought after wines on the planet. A conversation with any knowledgeable wine clerk and he or she could easily point out some of the producers that don't list their products green status.

While the topic of green wines is still not universally delineated, here is a brief outline of the three major categories.

ORGANIC

This means the wine can be made with only 100% organic grapes certified by an accredited USDA agency. No synthetic substances may be added at any time during the process including added sulfites or sulfur dioxide. The winery must be a certified organic producer of wine.

MADE WITH ORGANIC GRAPES

These wines must also be made with only certified organic grapes that contain no synthetic ingredients with the exception of sulfur dioxide which must be less than 100 ppm (parts per million). However, the winery itself does not have to be certified organic as long as what goes into the bottle follows the rules above.

BIODYNAMIC

This process is based on the writings of Austrian philospher Rudolf and seemingly even more strange -buried cow horns filled with manure; all in search of a healthy and natural vineyard. Resident plants, animals and insects are used to help the vines produce better wine, all the while sustaining the land. Typically, chemicals are not used in either the vineyard or the wines. This process sustains itself using all parts of the vineyard. At this time sulfites can be used but it most cases are not.

While it's true that there can be an expansive gap between some green wine producers and others and that quality can vary severely at times, with a little research you can easily single out the producers that are truly trying to make great wine.

So if you feel green with envy every time you see your neighbor empty his compost bin into his award winning rose bushes as he frowns at your monolithic weekly garbage pick-up, then maybe it's time to start somewhere. With wine, you can let your palate decide for you. In a well made green wine, you really can taste the difference; and of course, you'd be doing your part for the planet to boot.